Date: December 17

(Ryan)

Banging bells and a  blaring horn were the unmistakable alarm clock of the morning that tossed us from our beds in the border town of Esquipulas, Guatemala. The shower nor the bathroom looked very inviting so we opted to grab and go. The line of taxi cabs saw us coming and herded us in for the five mile trip to the border. We passed miles of trucks and bussed waiting to cross that look like they had been there for a week. We got let off next to the migration office and passed through painlessly. We had to get another cab to cross the two kilometer no mans zone between the Guatemalan migration office and the Honduran office where after paying the usual small unofficial border crossing fee we caught  the next bus to La Cebia.

La Cebia is not a pretty town and is described as a place to avoid if you can. We checked into a cheap hotel as soon as we could to avoid being caught on the street with our bags. Reports of muggings are very common. We headed straight out for a bar named Expatriates which was recommended as the place to get information and we needed to know how to get to the island of Utila. The bartenders name was Mark who turned out to be the owner. We picked his ear and shared stories until the wee hours when it was time to get back to the hotel. Mark didn't think it a good idea for us to walk and gave us a ride. (Mark, thanks for the great time and the ride. If you ever get this please drop us a line, I lost your e-mail address.) If you find yourself following our path and in La Cebia you have to go to Expatriates

Date: December 18

Weather: Hot

(Ryan)

A little groggy and running late we hailed a cab to the ferry boat that would take us to the island of Utila. The driver felt our sense of urgency and drove like a mad man to get us there on time only to find the ferry running late. Already dehydrated, the sun sucked out what little moisture was left in my body on the ride over. Stepping off the ferry, the island heat surrounded and engulfed us and it was time to do the hotel hunt. We had heard roomers of free rooms from dive schools so we decided to talk to a few schools before checking into a hotel. The Captain Morgan dive school sounded promising and had a novel and appealing name reminding us of the spiced rum of the same name. (It is reported that Captain Henry Morgan used Utila as a base for his exploits and many of the locals still bear his name.) The Captain Morgan dive school didn't have a hotel so we decided to look at a few others. Walking down the street we came to the Utila Dive Centre which was recommended to us by Mark of the bar in La Cebia. One of the owners carefully explained the course outline, which was a day longer than others, and told us they had a hotel that we could stay at for free. I was sold but we thought we should check a few others for comparison. Heading back to Captain Morgan's, we asked a dive instructor there about their class outline. The instructor seemed a bit stoned because when we asked about the curse outline he didn't know what we meant. Back to the Utila Dive Centre! 

Our intro class was that night so after checking in to the hotel, a shower and dinner it was time for Diving 101. A long day over and an early morning headed for us we called it a day.

Date: December 19

Weather: Starts out Rainy but ends up Sunny and warm.

(Ryan)

Day One of PADI Open Water Dive Class. My new watch says it's 6:34 and I'm awaken by the sound of rain. When the sound turns to a torrential downpour I stick my head out the door to have a look. There is a solid sheet of water coming down but other than that it looks like a great day. By 8:30 the rain has lighten to a trickle and we leave for coffee before class. We stop at The Zanzibar Cafe where we are one of tree parties having breakfast. The Zanzibar is run by a French guy and a native island woman of color. This is their house that they run a restaurant from. The family inside, of Norwegian Decent, were ordering their breakfast one item at a time. "One pancake." a few minutes later..."one egg". Meanwhile the seemingly simple task of pouring us two cups of coffee took almost 15 minutes. The banter between the Frenchman and his wife, with their terrible accents, kept Dan giggling until it was time to go. 

A video, then a class lecture, then lunch. We stopped to check e-mail on the way but didn't ask how much it was before we both jumped on separate computers. A half an hour latter I was hungry and went to pay. Pulled out what money we had and slightly panicked when she told me the price. It wiped us out. No money for lunch, and the last thing the instructor said was to eat a big lunch. We asked if there was a restaurant on the island that took credit cards. Of course; NO! Last chance was the small restaurant at the hotel would let us run a tab. Silently we walked back to the hotel wondering if we were going to be able to eat before the next day. "Sure, but only on Sundays because the bank is closed." the owner said. That was close. We ate and felt much better heading back to class for our first dive. 

Snorkel, mask, fins, wetsuit and other equipment was fitted and loaded onto the boat as the sky parted and sun shone through. We headed out of the bay to a small break in the reef with a sandy bottom where we would learn the basics about six feet deep. What an incredible feeling! People had told me how great it was to dive but it's defiantly something you have to experience for your self. Day one was pretty basic but never the less a great experience. Tomorrow more diving and less lessons.

Date: December 20

Weather: Sunny and Hot.

Day two of diving class started off about the same as the day before but we opted to skip the 20 minute cup of coffee at the Zanzabar. We watched a video and then received a lecture on diving basics from our instructor, Jimmy. A two hour lunch then back to the boat for day two of really diving. Learning the basic skills of diving, in itself, isn't very exciting but we were still amazed by the beauty and feeling of life under water. We were fast to get comfortable under water and breezed through completing our skills for that days class. I was begging to get the hang weightlessness when class was abruptly brought to an end. I could have stayed down for ever but the boat was heading back to port and the instructors were looking forward to happy hour at Coco Loco, pictured above.

We decided to join the crew for the sunset and planned to get to know our instructors a little better. We learned a little about the lives of Jimmy and a few others and life down island. Diving was planned for the morning so we called it a day and walked back to the hotel.

Date: December 21

Weather: Picture perfect! High 70's to low 80'swith a light breeze.

(Ryan)

Diving was planned in the morning of this day with classroom video and lecture to follow after diving in the afternoon. The members of our class converged on the dive center and now comfortable with our gear, quickly gathered and loaded tanks and masks on the boat. We headed out to the reef anxious to get in the water. The crew of instructors was exceptional excited to find the water visibility far clearer than normal and the mood on the boat was high. Our class met on the bow so Jimmy could describe the days lessons and skills we were going to be expected to perform. As Jimmy was explaining our days dive he stopped mid thought to get a better look at something in the water behind us. His eyes widened as he leaned from the bow and suddenly began to scream "MANTA!, MANTA! MANTA!" and ran towards the stern. By the time we were able to see the huge manta ray with a 10 foot wing span slowly flying through the water, every instructor was in the water with their fins and mask and swimming after the ray screaming and giggling. When the crew returned, everyone was electrified! Most of the crew had never swam with a manta ray and the few that had, commented on the rarity of seeing one of the gentle flying giants in such shallow water. We hadn't even started and it had already been a record day! 

Completing our requited skills quickly we were finally going to do a little diving and see some of the reef. Absolutely amazing! We swam about 30 feet down along a huge black coral wall which undulated with life and too many fish to count. Again the dive ended too soon but the warm sunny deck of the boat wasn't such a bad alternative. The ride back to port was very relaxing basking in the warm sun and catching a few rays. 

At port we were dismissed for lunch then returned for the afternoon video and lecture. Everyone at the dive center was still overwhelmed by the days happenings. The mildly mundane video, narrated by a popular Los Angeles disk jocky, Richard Blade (the gay blade, if you were to ask Kevin and Bean) and lecture passed quickly. It was a short happy hour and an early bed time, the diving and excitement took a lot out of us.

Date: December 22 

Weather: Mild overcast but warm, 75 degrees.

(Ryan)

A.M. dive off to the north side of  the island. Along the way we see spinner dolphin doing summersaults in the air and ridding the bow. Minutes later we see tuna churning up the water where they were feeding off in the distance, which meant a whale shark might be near. When we approach the feeding frenzy  we see a huge hump belonging to a 100 foot whale shark sticking out of the water and grab our masks. The first one goes down fast but we find a second in just a few minutes. Jimmy the instructor and I, with snorkel and mask, are able to keep up with the 50 foot wale shark for a 100 yards swimming five feet away before it dives to the murky depths. It's now day two of rare happening and everyone is ecstatic. 

The dive site is called the maze and has a huge coral wall extending from 18 meters deep (60 feet), where we were, down out of sight. The diving is amazing, the colors vibrant and the feeling of flying incredible. The first dive comes to a close too soon bit today we get to go on two so there is still more to look forward to.

We continuing around the island and pass the keys. Two are joined by a bridge and look to have every inch built upon. Jimmy comments that if we think there are some characters on Utila we should see the inhabitants on the keys. We think we'll miss that slice of life.

Next dive is a few skills then just fun at weightlessness. There's an under water race without fins that I narrowly win and a little floating upside down. I can't describe how wonderful the experience is or recommend diving enough and I'm sure Dan is in agreement.

I couldn't be sadder that the diving was over but The Utila Dive Centre had decided it had been such a good week they ought to throw a party, and that is what they did. This would put us scrambling to meet our friend Brad by Christmas but we thought it well worth it. To make up the lost time we decided instead of backtracking by bus along the same path that we had gotten there by, that we would fly over already traveled ground. This would put us on track to meet our friend Brad and give us a little time to relax and celebrate Christmas. 

The staff at the dive center was in high spirits and we knew we were in store for a good party with seasoned island partiers. We thought we would rest up for the big night knowing we had an early morning plane to catch and took a nap at the hotel. A good dinner base and back to the dive center for party time. After things got loosened up the limbo stick was brought out but Dan and I were quickly eliminated. Spirits ran low and the staff decided to move the party to The Bar in the Bush. With our last bit of sense we left the party to try to squeeze in a few hours sleep before our plane. Goodbyes, thank yous',  and e-mail address were exchanged and we stumbled off to our hotel.

Dear PADI 

My overwhelming experience at the Utila Dive Centre, Utila, Honduras,  has compelled me to write this letter. I entered my PADI certified coarse cautiously hearing rumors that courses taught on Utila may be sub standard and employ such equipment and direction. My experience was so far above my expectations that I felt this letter a necessity.

After interviewing various Dive Programs on the Island I selected The Utila Dive Centre based on the careful description of the course by one of it's principals as well as a recommendation. I committed to the class prior to inspecting the equipment and meeting my instructor but wasn't required to pay until the end of the class which gave me an open window to reject the course at my liking. 

I entered my first class where I met my instructor Jimmy. Simply I will say that I do not feel I could have received better instruction anywhere or by anyone involved with PADI. As for the Equipment, much of it seemed to be new and none of it was unusable or defective. The air, which I read during my research was a simple was to judge a Dive Class, was crisp and clean. 

The instruction was by far the best part of the experience. Jimmy's exuberance and passion for diving was clearly channeled into his lectures and teaching. Diving 101, which he must have taught hundreds of times, was delivered with excitement and spirit. He was deeply passionate about the sport he loved and that came through in his lectures. He needed not refer to any of his own literature yet his lectures parallel the PADI Open Water Book perfectly. All questions were answered accurately and without hesitation. 

In the water, Jimmy's pace was patient and conscious. Perhaps slow for an overexcited beginner diver but my safety was never in question and the pace gave me time to fully appreciate the underwater environment. 

Thank you for providing The Utila Dive Centre with the tools to continue the diving course in Honduras.

Sincerely,

Ryan Gee

Date: December 23

Weather: Hot! Hot! Hot!

"Oh My God, does my head hurt. What time is it?" "Well...the plane left over an hour ago." "Then I'm going back to sleep". 

I'm not going to recreate the next two days traveling but I'll give you the highlights.

1. Ferry back to La Cebia to catch connecting flight to Tegucigalpa, Honduras. Yep. we missed the connecter.

2. Get next flight to Tegucigalpa.

3. Stay night and wake up early to catch bus to Managua, Nicaragua. 

4. At border we have to pay bogus entrance fee and they don't even accept their own national money. US dollars only and we don't have enough. We have to change the money we changed from Honduran to Nicaraguan back to US$. 

5. Arrive at about 6:30 pm Christmas Eve in Managua and I feel like crap! Check into the first cheap hotel and I go to bed. We have been warned not to do a lot of waling after dark but I don't feel like going anywhere anyway. Dan feels like he is a prisoner on Christmas Eve. Then my body begins to erupt from both ends and Dan opts for the not so safe walk instead listening to me. 

6. Midnight Christmas Eve and sound like every firecracker ever made is going off. It's a half hour before the explosions finally begin to taper off.

7. Bus leaves at 6 a.m. and we make it to the bus station 15 minutes early to see our bus pulling away. Were told to wait for the next one at 7 which of course leaves late.

8. Another fun border crossing. Bus stops at booth one...$1; we walk to the migration office...$5 US only but we don't have any and the usual border bank is closed so the crocked border guard accepts his national money; (we are almost broke and Dan changes what's left of our money to Costa Rican Colones)  We are about to board the bus when we are told to go to booth 3 where we have to pay another $3 but now all they will accept is Nicaraguan national money and we have none. Dan's back to the street money trader who doesn't seem to want to help. The bus deriver is acting crazy like he is going to leave without us. Dan finally makes change and we pay off the last of the corrupt officials who seem to just build a wood booth and collect money and when another official wants some of the money he builds himself a his own wood shack.

9. We are finally out of Nicaragua and in line for an entry stamp to Costa Rica almost out of money we get lucky and none is asked for at the Costa Rican border.

Thank God that's over.