One merchant ship, two dugout canoes, one speed boat, one jeep through the jungle and two buses.

Day 12: January 25

Weather: Upper 70's Low 80's, Overcast burning off in the afternoon for highs in the upper 80's

We were finally on a boat actually headed to a town in Columbia. The ride was nearly as smooth as previous dugout canoe but we had a little chop. It was only about an hour in a half latter that we pulled into a small bay with beautiful beaches and some larger hotels near the water. We couldn't believe it. Our guide book had little to say if anything about the place and here was a resort town with restaurants, a dive shop, bakeries and bars. We were still very eager to keep moving but thought that if we got stuck there it wouldn't be so bad. 

Right off the boat I began to ask some guys hanging around the dock for a boat going to Cartagena or Turbo, another large port before Cartagena. Lots of heads shaking side to side and lightning fast Spanish. No Luck. I asked another and was told that a boat would be there in a few days and that he had a beautiful resort around the bay in the next town that we could wait at. I wasn't about to fall for that! so I asked some more. There was rumor of a Columbian cargo boat that was to arrive that afternoon but would take all the following day to unload then return to Cartagena the day after that. Based on past experience we weren't going to hold our breath. We asked a woman at dock side snack bar but she wasn't much help. I thought we were stuck there for a few days so I did a lap around town to price some hotels. Some were very beautiful and extravagant with fresh cut flowers and fine finishes and pools. They were only $50 a night which out of our price rage was still a great value. Even the hostel was spotless and even beautiful. And more in our price range of $20 a night.

Back at the dock we were going to wait and see what turned up. A group from one of the resorts with luggage in tow came to the docks with a few of the employees from the resort. I quickly walked up to one of the employees and asked if he knew of a boat going to Cartagena or Turbo. He pointed to a boat and said that it was going to Turbo but he didn't know when, how much or who to contact. He then walked the guests from the resort that he worked for to the woman at the snack bar that we were sitting at and all of the guests with luggage bought some kind of ticket. I waked up to the woman and simply asked for two tickets to turbo and to my surprise she sold me two. You just have to shake you head and laugh. The same woman that we asked about a boat four hours earlier and said she knew of none just sold us our ticket out. We had a two hour wait before the boat was to leave but time went by fast knowing we were again to be on our way. Time went even faster when Andres said that he was going to stay a few days longer.

A fast, open, 20 seat boat screamed up to the dock and its wet passengers disembarked. The driver was going to have lunch before we left so we waited a little longer. There were only seven passengers for the return to Turbo and three of those children. A lines man threw us off of the dock and the captain nailed it. The power of the twin 200 hp. motors put us in out seats as Dan and I looked at each other with grins from ear to ear. In the open water spray began to come over the bow and a little girl sitting in front of me would look back and wipe the spray from my sunglasses. I wrapped the camera up as best I could with a plastic bag as the light spray turned into buckets of water. We cruised along the coast which has some incredible sights. The most surprising were the occasional house nestled in a cove with huge cliffs at it's back. There were defiantly no roads leading to the house and a boat arrival looked fraught with peril as the surf crashed on reef before the house. These occasional housed were few and very far between and for the life of me I have no idea how the materials were brought in or how one would get in and out. The mystery led me to daydream of being an old hermit in one of those houses staring out at the ocean day after day. The idea didn't sound to bat to me at the time but I'm sure it couldn't be much fun.

After a few hours the water began to turn brown and tasted more fresh than salt. I wondered what could be in the water after reading that there was much pollution. 

Three and a half hours later we entered the huge sheltered bay or Turbo. We motored past floating ghettos in the middle of the bay, corrugated tin shacks connected by planks of wood. We then entered a small channel with about 100 of the old beat merchant ships that we had seen on our way south. Some of the ships were in repair while others were in one state of loading or unloading. 

Turbo is a place our guide book warns to stay as far away from as you can. As well as every person that we had told we were going to Columbia telling us of the dangers. With all that on our minds as we eased up to the docks it is without a doubt we were both quite on edge. I didn't want to spend a lot of time milling around with all of our valuables and began to ask about a boat to Cartagena as soon as we got off the other. Within 50 steps we found a man who led us to a merchant boat hauling timbers. Someone onboard welcomed us aboard and said that they were leaving the next morning to Cartagena at 8:00. We agreed on a price and was told that the trip would last 24 hours. We weren't on Turbo ground for more than ten minutes and had already found shelter and food aboard our next boat. So we thought. We sat in the sun trying to dry off from the speed boat ride there and another crewman appeared and we talked about our trip in our worst Spanish. He then said that he thought we were leaving the next day sometime but wasn't sure. He also said that we had to walk into town, and got to the police station to ask for permission for the trip. One other report from a week earlier led us to believe that this was true. They offered to watch our stuff but we loaded up and nervously began our walk down the street at the sun began to set. At the police station, there was a little confusion as to what we wanted but we finally figured that all we needed was our entrance stamps and began to head back to the boat. About halfway there we decided to discuss our options. We both had fears of boat that would never get to where we wanted to go and checked our travel guide for alternatives. 

We could take a Jeep through the jungle to the next city of Monteria where we would catch another bus to Cartagena. Part of us felt that this would be cheating. We were taking an ocean adventure and we should stick to the boat for the story. On the other hand time was running out and we had to start covering some ground if we were to make it to Rio, Brazil for Carnival. We finally both agreed that a jeep through the jungle after all that we had heard of the dangers could hardly be construed as cheating. An air-conditioned bus? now that would have been cheating. We bought our tickets and were told to be back at 6:00 a.m. the nest morning. They recommended a cheap hotel right across the street so we settled in then headed out for some dinner then to bed.

Day 13: Jan. 26

Weather: Hot but not too hot, just enough to sweat.

You could hear the jeeps worming up across the street so we scrambled over. A quick cup of coffee and everyone got in and we were off.

So how many people got into this jeep?...Did you say six? Your way off. How about eight? Well you would be just about half right. We left the garage with 13 passengers and a driver, that's 14 people in a jeep. About half way through the Seven hour, 100 mile trip we got one maybe two more passengers up on the roof. We didn't have the worst. We saw jeeps going by with five on the roof. This was not to be the relaxing or exciting jungle tour we would like you all to believe. As you can tell from the picture, maintenance was not at the top of the list on this jeep and we're sure that suspension is the nearer the bottom. It was a rough, bumpy, long ride. There wasn't a moment that we didn't feel like humps of jell-o in one of those things they use to shake up paint. The country side was beautiful and the first few hours we saw nothing but banana groves. I couldn't take any pictures because I was too busy holding on. After the fourth hour any sign of fun had deserted us long ago. We were certainly not cheating our way in comfort. The dirt road was little more than a trail much of the time and I was sure we would break down, unbelievably we didn't. Seven hours latter found us with the first bit of true luck as the first stop of the jeep was at the bus station in Monteria and there was a bus ready to head out to Cartagena. The promised land, as we began to think of it, was now just a few hours away. We had to take one more city bus from the bus station to the walled city of Cartagena.

We had Finally arrived! Three and a half weeks to travel about 500 miles.

We found a hotel and headed straight out to treat ourselves to a good meal and bottle of wine.

Date: January 27-29

Weather: Mid 80's and pleasant.

The next few days have been spent relaxing and exploring Old Town Cartagena, Columbia. We went to one of the old forts that was used to protect the city from pirates back in the day. The city is very beautiful, full of Classic Colonial architecture and coble stone streets. Huge antique doors, balconies with brightly colored potted bougainvillea brighten the streets. Large open air squares to sit and have something cool to drink as the town goes by. A definite must see to anyone coming to South America.

Date: January 30

Weather same

Super Bowl Sunday. We got lucky because Ryan was sitting eating lunch where he meet some girls who invited us to their party.  We got up, Ryan did some web page stuff and Dan went to the bus stop looking for information for the bus the next day.  About five we went to the party in a high rise apartment building on a peninsula,  right on the beach, beautiful view of the ocean and sunset. The people at the party all work at the school next door. They have a great set up, the school flies them to Columbia, pays for their apartments, and all the others day to day stuff, with the exception of food and entertainment. The party was fun and it was especially nice to talk with people who could all understand what the hell we were saying. I'm not sure if we were just starved for entertainment or if it was a particularly good game, but we enjoyed it. After the game we went home. 

Date: January 31- February 1

Weather the same

  The next two days were a disaster to say the least. It all started with trying to pay for our hotel bill. There was a discrepancy between the amount of nights they wanted to charge us, they said four and we thought three. Well, we lost of course, Columbia -1, Dan and Ryan- 0. So, we then tried to pay with credit card, sorry guys cash only. Columbia- 2, Dan and Ryan -0. Ouch starting the day behind by two, not good. 

  Off to the bank we went, and if you have read any of the other banking stories you might know what's in store. It is the longest most aggravating experience ever, we loathe doing any type of banking what so ever. You would think we would be experts at this by now, but no, because right when you think you have it licked they change the procedures. Anyway, we left the hotel at nine a.m., at a quick pace, we must have covered half the down town area and entered five or six banks. Each had the same response, "No, we do not accept travelers checks or credit cards, and sorry we do not change US dollars."  So, it was down the block to Citibank, who will not accept travelers checks either, but will give cash advances on credit cards if you walk down the block and make copies of your passport. But, we didn't find out about the copy thing until we stood in line for thirty minutes. (Columbia-3, Dan and Ryan-0)  We got back to the bank,  reentered the now 45 minute line, and got some cash. By this time it was about 11:00 am. 

  Deciding it was time to eat before we do anything we found food and continued. Ordering seemed particularly difficult as well, but  I'm sure it was just us. It kind of went like this " para me, cafe con leche. aaahhh Que? Cafe con leche. aaahhh Que? " responding the third time very slowly " cafe...con...leche...comprende si or no. oooohhhh cafe con leche, si senor. Our accents must be bad or some thing, we can't figure it out. Not really a point for Columbia, but score it as an assist on increasing the frustration factor. Back to the hotel we went.

  We paid the bill then went to the bus station by taxi. Dan made a major penalty by leaving the travel book, our only source of information, in the taxi. At least one penalty maybe two, illegal procedure and possibly delay of game, and injuring a teammate. Because, the taxi guy will most likely sell the book even though it is in English. We gotta give a score to Columbia. (Columbia 4,  Dan and Ryan 0). Four to zip not looking good for the visiting team.

  The bus went to the boarder town and arrived at nine at night. At the station the security guard asked us if we wanted a jeep to a town in Venezuela, across the border. Wow things could be looking up for Dan and Ryan. A person being nice and a direct jeep to where they want to go.

  We arrived at the border but, the guard told us "your paper work is not in order, you do not speak Spanish, so you can't have an exit stamp. Sorry, try Venezuela they might let you in. Venezuela responded," sorry you cannot enter until you have an exit stamp from Columbia". So we had to let our ride go on with out us, paid for but no refund, ouch a crushing blow to the wallet. A sixty yard bomb and score for Columbia. Leaving Dan and Ryan at the border with no ride back to town at night and border people suggesting not to leave the area by foot because the town is dangerous. (Columbia- 5, Dan and Ryan-0) Well, at this point the border official either felt sorry for us or didn't want us sleeping in front of the office waiting for it to open, so he arranged a ride to a hotel back in Columbia. We spent the night, and in the morning went back to the border to find out that the immigration office we needed was back in town. Then the night guard was going home and saw us so he gave a ride back to town. At the office we had trouble communicating with the official, so after about an hour of total frustration on our and her part she called an interpreter. This guy explain we failed to get the proper entrance stamp in Turbo and the fine was going to be $80.00 each. Ouch again! Now after all that we had to exchange our money from a guy in a park, and, he would only exchange $200. Then we had to go to the bank to pay the fine, which had a line that circled around twice in the bank and along the window outside. The guard at the bank saw us, how could he miss two white guys with huge backpacks standing in a line of Columbians, he rushed us up to the front ahead of everybody. We then went back to the immigration office, showed our receipts got our passports stamped and went back to the border. All in all we started the day at eight o'clock and left the Columbia at four maybe five o'clock. Final score Columbia 2,000,000, Dan and Ryan 3).