February 6-9

Angel Falls

Highest Waterfall in The World 

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February 6

7:00 am. I might have slept ok if it wasn't for a couple of guys snoring in unison. As one would take a breath in the other was letting his noisily out. Peering out of the camp hut I saw the striking valley we were in, surrounded by steep cliffs on three sides going straight up 

It was breakfast time and we were joined by a couple of wild parrots that stop by for breakfast on occasion. It was interesting to see the camp dog, camp cat and two wild parrots all getting along so well each taking turns at the scraps. But everyone didn't like the camp rooster who was constantly chased away by the camp dog.

 

8:00 am. Loaded into the canoe it was time to head up river. We were given plastic bags for our cameras and told not to bring anything we didn't want to get wet. It was a sure omen of the wetness to come. It didn't take long before we had reentered the rapids and were getting a steady spray of water from the bow. The people that had gone up the previous day had warned that we may have to get out and push to make it up the river. All over again I worried about the camera but what was I to do? Let all you miss out on falls? I think not. I went through the "what if's" and tried to have a plan of attack in the event we went over. Precarious passing after another we made steady progress up the rapids. There was a driver and a rock look out on the bow who was the first in the water at the first sign of trouble. We hit one a little off and began to get pushed sideways. This was it, I thought and readied my plan of attack. Grabbed the camera bag in one hand and looked where I would jump. The water was pushing against the side of the canoe and we began to rock violently taking on some water. I watched for the rock look-outs cue but he very confidently got the canoe under control. With out a moments hesitation we charged the torrents a second time. This time we hit it straight but got hung up on some rocks at the top. Now I thought we would be swept downstream backwards. The out-board was screaming and the look-out was in the water trying to push the canoe off the rocks. I offered to help but they preferred us tourists stay put. Our guide jumped in as well as a guide in training who was along too. It took them a few minutes but we were at last free of the rocks. We only had a short time before the next set came into sight and from here on we were hurtling rapids every few minutes. Only once did all the men have to jump out to pull the boat up stream while Corinna held everyone's valuables dry. 

 

12:00 noon There was a few minutes to dry off at camp #3 prior to setting off through the jungle to the base of Angel Falls. There was a sliver cut out of the jungle that you could see the falls in the distance and I was raring to go. This is what it was all about. This is what I had set off three months earlier to do. I was ecstatic. I felt bad for all the time we had wasted in some big whatever city doing nothing. I vowed to myself to spend more time seeing wonders of the world than wasting time and money in less desirable surroundings. 

Right out of camp we were in the jungle and got jungle 102 from Otto the guide. He pointed out the 24 hour ant which if it bites you, you have fever for 24 hours. He had experienced this first hand and assured us it wasn't fun. I made sure so stay clear of those. Phil and Otto did a little vine swinging like Tarzan and soon the path began to go up. I was too excited to get tired but a few needed a couple breathers. As we neared we could only hear Angel Falls in the distance, at no point did the jungle open up to give us a peak. It was all for the better like not knowing what your getting for Christmas when we came to a rock at the top of a cliff and Angel Falls, the highest free-falling waterfall in the world stood before us. Immense! and wonderful! I took about 200 pictures most of which the same but I was very happy. After a short rest we proceeded to the pool at the base of the falls to swim. The water was refreshing and not as cold as I had expected. Some of us took turns leaning against the rock wall and having the fall beat against our backs. We could have stayed there all day but Otto gathered us together and we set off for camp #3 for lunch. 

 

2:30 pm. We had all worked up a big hunger after the days exploring and were pleasantly surprised to see lunch just about done when we arrived. Chicken roasted on a stick, mashed potatoes and coal-slaw and plenty for seconds. What would top this but a swim in the river and a slide down some of the small rapids before the ride down river. 

 

5:30 pm. It was still warm out when we arrived back at camp #2 and the remaining sun soaked in and warmed our wet chilled bodies. We were greeted by our friends the parrots from breakfast but they refused to pose together for a good picture. A shower and out came the second bottle of rum. The camp cook looked at me cross eyed as I asked for some orange juice for it was my job to get mixers since I didn't bring any rum. More travel stories from Corinna, Focal and Phil before dinner and even more after. It wasn't 'til after 1:00 am. that the last of us poured ourselves into our hammocks sure to get some sleep.

 

February 7

7:00 am. Breakfast with the, parrots, dog, cat, and rooster. (who somehow had the decency not to start it's cock-a-doodle-dooing until about 6:45) Pile in the canoe and make our way back to base camp. The morning was very peaceful, in-between holding on for dear life through the white water. Again we had to hike around a few of the more precarious rapids but it was welcome relief to our sore butts. 

 

10:30 am. We arrive back in time for those returning to Ciudad Bolivar to catch their flights. Those of us continuing to Santa Elena, on the Venezuela/ Brazil border would leave the next morning. Exchange of e-mail addresses and then a little down time. I had used every kb. of every disk on pictures and began transferring them to the computer. Everyone was excited to see how the pictures came out but I told them to wait until that evening and I would run a little slide show after I had formatted all the pictures later that night. 

 

12:00 noon. Corinna, Focal, and Phil were headed to the lagoon to sit in the sun. I was trying to beg my way back to the island in the lagoon with the next group. I hadn't had enough of Sapo Falls, the one you walk behind, and wanted to take more pictures. They worried about how I would get back and gently declined my offer. If you know me you know what comes next. I get five plastic bags and wrap the camera up tight. I walk down to the water and begin to swim with the camera over my head. I'm not sure how strong the current is going to be and while keeping my eyes open for Anaconda snakes I quickly make my way. When I reach the other side I was completely without a breath. I had looked back from where I had come and there was a small group that had watched my progress. I walked a fair way into the forest to catch my breath and soon felt better. I sat for a long while on the shore of the lagoon in front of one of the Canaima Falls and just took it in without hurry. It was very relaxing being there alone and with my thoughts. But at the same time I wished for someone to share it with and I thought about Brooke back at home. Ready for the short hike to Sapo Falls I made my way taking it all in. 

Arriving at the falls I wondered how the first people who saw them must have felt. I took 100 pictures and laid on the warm rocks in the sun. Only a few other tours went by and only a few people in each of the groups so I felt at peace and far away. It was great! 

Back at the lagoon I got lucky and caught a boat full of German tourists run by a separate tour company. They were happy to take me back and couldn't believe that I had swum there.

 

6:00 pm. Good timing. I met up with the gang and we decided to have dinner at the lagoon side snack bar. The only restaurant was well out of any of our budgets so it was ham and cheese sandwiches. 

 

7:30 pm. I have a little more editing before a can do a rough run through of the pictures for everybody later that night. People keep coming up to me while I work and say they saw me swim across to the island and think I'm crazy. One guy said he had lived there his whole life and would never think of swimming there with all the snakes. Oh well, ignorance is bliss.

So Phil bought the first bottle of rum and the German couple had bought the second so I guess it was my turn. Rum and Cokes for all as the slide show started. Everyone was very impressed by the quality and brightness of the pictures. When it was only the gang left they asked to see some of the other pictures. I ended up showing every picture I had, of the trip and of all the friends back home

 

February 8

7:30 am. I at last climb out of my hammock and put myself together. Otto has said we need to be at the Airport at 8:30 and we are all ready and looking for our ride at 8:29. I'm pretty sure what's going to happen. We're going to get to the airport and have to wait until the plane comes in from Ciudad Bolivar at 10:30. Bingo! They don't even start to sell coffee until 9:45. 

At last we are loaded and down the runway. A couple fly bys would have been nice but who's complaining. The flight south was even better than the first. We flew over that same perfect green and spotted at least 25 more waterfalls deep in the jungle. It would have been fun spending a few months trekking to all of them but it was time to meet Dan.

 

12:00 noon. Touch down. The end of a great adventure! We are all going to the same cheap hotel which is were Dan is hopefully waiting. "Excuse me have you seen a big red-headed guy"? "Dan, Sure? I thought he went to the airport to meet his friend". It was a relief to know he was still there but we were all too hungry to wait. We asked for the nearest restaurant and were directed down the street. We had four Filet Mignions with all the fixings. What a surprise to have such a good meal with such good service in such a little border town. It was truly an oasis. 

Back at the hotel we found Dan and his hotel friends and I think he was glad to see me knowing we would be leaving soon. To avoid any surprises we elected to take care of any Visa/ exit stamp that night. We were very surprised to find such friendly people to help us at the Brazilian offices, but what the hell, the Brazilian Visa cost us $50 each. Who wouldn't be happy to help. 

A big group of travelers were staying at the hotel and most leaving in the morning as well as us. Dan knew everyone pretty well and we all had one last big farewell before going all our separate ways.

 

February 9

Ouch my head hurts! The bus is supposed to be a direct to Manaus, Brazil but I am woke up and told to get off to catch another bus in Boa Vista, Brazil. It was all very confusing  and to top it off we now were in Portuguese country and the little Spanish we had, helped even less. Despite communication difficulties people were very friendly and willing to help. The Bad news was our connecting bus wasn't to leave until 6:00 pm. The good news was we had crossed a time zone and it was one hour closer to 6:00. The bus arrives and it's an all-nighter. 


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